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Comentado en Canadá el 14 de abril de 2025
thx
Customer
Comentado en Canadá el 23 de junio de 2024
Good quality item. Comes with all the seals you need for the job.
Tim Ault
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 18 de junio de 2024
I mounted this Fel-Pro OS 34500 R oil pan gasket on squish between an aftermarket oil pan and a 14yo Chevy 350 crate engine. The thing fit with zero issues.Box includes the plastic gasket holder-uppers, which are completely unnecessary if the four corners of your oil pan secure with studs. Save your old nuts and bolts 'cause this Fel-Pro OS 34500 R oil pan gasket does NOT include fasteners.I paid around twenty bucks for this Fel-Pro gasket; an excellent price for total part compatibility with zero installation hassles and absolutely no weep miles later.
Rodrigo
Comentado en México el 18 de febrero de 2023
Es un excelente sello material y apariencia premium, lo único que no me sirvió fueron los clips que traen para mejorar el ensamble , no quedaron con la rosca de los tornillos de mi bloque, los clips eran de mayor diámetro, pero eso es un extra , nada que reclamar al sello
Steve Bilodeau
Comentado en Canadá el 17 de noviembre de 2022
Fit perfect on 87 Camaro SBC 305 , fix my leaking problem, nice quality gasket
Benitez Family
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 17 de mayo de 2016
I had a slow dime size a week, leak on my truck. It started turning into a dollar a day leak as of late. I figured it was time to track it down. After tearing off the bellhousing and praying it wasnt my rear main, i was relieved to see the majority of the leak was at the filter housing and oil pan gasket.The gaskets supplied themselves seem very well made and built to last. Super thick. Barring user error, i do not see these failing. (Fingers crossed) ive always used felpro gaskets and no complaints.Being my vehicle is 4x4...im not going to lie. It was a task. But dont let that scare you. I did it with hand tools, a torque wrench, ramps and a jack.Simply put (disclaimer dont blame me if you do it wrong) the way I did it with the engine in the vehicle WITHOUT removing the front diff was to remove the exhaust, inspection cover, skid plate, two support rods that go to the inspection cover, 2 motor mount bolts, oil dipstick tube, and radiator fan shroud. ( i removed the starter too, you may not need to do that, but feel free its probably all oily anyways)The two support rods that go from the block to the inspection cover NEED to be removed to save you some time. You can do it with them on but youll be fighting them the whole time. Save yourself the hassle.Anyways. Once you remove all that, jack up the motor by supporting a piece of wood or something to lift the engine by the harmonic balancer. Tilt up the engine as far as it will go before crushing any heater hoses or the transmission hits the pan. This will give you enough clearance to get the pan off.Now unbolt the oil filter housing and shimmy it aside so you can reach all the pan bolts. Unbolt the 10mm and 13mm bolts, clean the mating surfaces. I did use rtv on the block and the pan sandwiching the gasket spread evenly and thin(done it this way for years and no leaks) and spread a thicker traditional bead on the corners where the front and rear main "humps create a corner on the gasket(4).finger tighten the bolts and try not to squish too much rtv out. Let that rtv sit overnight at least before torquing it down to spec (7lbs on the 10mm and 18lbs on the 13mm) DONT FORGET TO reUSE THE METAL BRACES ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE PAN TO TIGHTEN THE BOLTS EVENLY.Once you have all that snugged up, use the supplied gaskets for your oil filter housing and bolt that back up. (The old paperish gasket may need to be scraped from the filter housing first) Reassemble everything you took off and woohoo! No more messy driveway.Ok that was a general run down but you get the idea.Just be extra clean and take your time . I did not use the little blue stud keeper thingamabobs. Just had a helper snug up some bolts while i held the pan in place. They seemed cool though.
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