No hay artículos en el carro
No hay artículos en el carroLos cilindros maestros de freno profesionales ACDelco utilizan fundiciones de aluminio y hierro, lo que los convierte en un reemplazo de alta calidad para muchos vehículos en la carretera hoy. Estos cilindros maestros contienen componentes de goma de etileno propileno (EPDM) y estireno butadieno (SBR) para proporcionar una resistencia superior al calor, la corrosión y las fugas. Los cilindros maestros de freno profesionales ACDelco están listos para sangrar e instalar directamente fuera de la caja, no requiere montaje. Estos cilindros maestros de freno de repuesto de alta calidad están fabricados para cumplir con tus expectativas de ajuste, forma y función.
Customer
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 28 de junio de 2024
Good quality part. Fit perfect. Works great
Bernadette B.
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 24 de septiembre de 2024
Good quality.. Very satisfied
Kelly B.
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 29 de abril de 2024
Worked great! No problem bench bleeding or installing this Master Cylinder.
Gookie
Comentado en Canadá el 8 de marzo de 2023
It looks perfect nice and new. I'm impressed.
2012
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 1 de mayo de 2018
1986 E150 van has over 300K and the master went out. Installed this one in 20/min, very easy. Of course I didn't read the instructions but that was beneficial this time. Should also mention that I've worked on vehicles since the 70's; cantankerous old guy I might be:) Anyway, disconnect the lines, unbolt the master, if you have a stick shift there will be four nuts and pull off the master. Do not take off the reservoir cover. Install the new master, do not connect the lines just yet. Pour fluid into the two reservoirs and the pump the breaks until the fluid coms out of the two line inputs; this will prime the master cylinder. Took awhile but eventually the air will pump out but you will end up with a little break fluid on the ground. With two people, one to watch it'll go faster rather than going back and forth checking. With me the front reservoir primed first and once it does the fluid will squirt out the top when the break peddle returns. I just laid the reservoir cap on to keep it from splashing all over. Once both reservoirs are primed connect the break lines, pump up the breaks to make sure the peddle is stiff and you are ready to go. Since the break lines won't suck in any air and you bleed out air in the master, there shouldn't be any air getting into the line. You'll know if the peddle starts going soft and then the worst case is you'll need to bleed the lines; mine seem to be fine. If you have trouble bleeding the master try using a syringe to force fluid through the master. Hope you enjoyed my dissertation:)
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