Ametherm SL32 1R030 (paquete de 2) termistor NTC, SG379 HVAC, limitador de corriente de entrada 1 ohm Ohm ± 20% 1.18' (30 mm)

Had my blower motor stop working, in the middle of a heat wave. I couldn't even get a hvac tech for a week, a replacement blower driver was around 150 to 200.I thought I would try this, it was such a good value there wasn't much to lose.Hardest part of the whole job was figuring out what this part is called, probably took me a couple hours of reading forums and looking at pictures.Anyway it worked perfectly the first time. Highly recommended.Always repair your stuff, always DIY.

Fast delivery, not cheap but worth it

We had an ice storm come through and we were without power for a week. We have a 9000W generator so we were able to keep things running including the furnace. But a couple days into the outage the furnace quit working. I found a couple limit sensors on the sides of the blower and they had tripped. The sensors had a reset button on the back so I pushed those and the furnace fired up so I figured it was working. A few minutes later I checked it and the limit sensors had tripped again. I reset them again and watched it closely this time and while the burners came on the blower fan never started. I had a spare controller board so I swapped that in but it still didn't work. I checked that the motor was getting constant 120V and that the 24VAC was good. Since everything else looked good I suspected the motor. I did a final test by setting my thermostat to the "blower on" setting instead of "auto" and it did still did not come on. The GE (Genteq) 1HP motor is of the ECM 2.3 style which is a electronic controlled variable speed motor. The electronic control module is a separate unit that bolts to the end of the motor and has 2 connectors - a 5 pin power connector and a 16 pin 24v control connector.Most electric motors you can just apply 120V or 240V (depending on how it is wired) directly and see if it works. But for these ECM motors you can't do that. There are testers made that connect to the motor that will test these (TECMate PRO and TECINspect) but they are about $150. There are YouTube videos that show how you can make a easy tester. It is basically applying 120V or 240V to the power connector and then applying 24VAC to a set of pins one the control connector. This just checks if the ECM is good. If it is and the motor turns on you have a problem outside the motor. If it doesn't work then it could be either the ECM or the motor.To test if the motor is good or not you first spin the motor by hand to make sure that it spins freely and that the bearings aren't shot. Then you have to test it electrically, which is actually very easy. To do this you have to disconnect the ECM from the motor. Once you have the blower out of the furnace (not really that hard, just take pictures of the wiring connections first) you unscrew 2 bolts on the end of the motor and it comes off. Inside there is a 3 wire connector from the ECM to the motor that you then unplug. DO NOT attempt to apply power directly to this connector. You will run the risk of burning up a perfectly good motor. You need a multimeter that tests resistance (Ohms). After you have set your meter to resistance touch one lead to an unpainted part of the motor case and then the other lead to each of the 3 connector pins one by one. If the resistance is higher than 100k ohms that test is good. It may test to infinity (no reading) too which is fine. That is the Winding Test. Next is the Phase to Phase Test. To do this connect the leads to every combination of 2 pins of the three pins on the motor - pin 1 to pin 2, pin 1 to pin 3 and pin 2 to pin 3. The reading should be less than 20 ohms and each reading should be within 10% of each other. In my case they all measured 4.3 to 4.4 ohms which is fine. If it passes the spin test and both electrical tests then your motor is good which mine appeared to be.I found out that the ECM 2.3 motors are no longer made. If you can find a NOS, OEM or remanufactured motor the are well over $1000. Also the ECM 2.3 controllers are no longer made. Genteq (who now owns the GE motor brand) does make a ECM 2.3 compatible controlled called OEM Eon but I believe they are manufacturer specific, in other words there are specific one for Trane, Amana, etc. In addition they are $800+. You can also get a complete EON motor but while I couldn't find prices on them I imagine they aren't cheap. If your motor is bad that might be your only option. BUT if your motor is good and your controller isn't then these thermistors might save the day for you.Inside the controller is circuit board with several large and small electrolytic (can) capacitors. It also has a device mounted to a heatsink. There is also a black round flat device that looks like a large ceramic disc capacitor. That is the thermistor. Thermistors are like a regular resistor but are variable based on temperature. To remove it you have to remove the circuit board which has 2 screws holding it down and there might be a plastic stand-off the you have to get a pair of needle nose pliers on to squeeze it to release. If you end up breaking that it's not a big deal as the 2 screws will hold the board fine. Once you have all that loose pull the board up out of the ECM case and you will have 3 wires that connect to the case which has a bunch of rubbery foam in it and there are other electronic components embedded in it.If you want to test the thermistor, take your multimeter on resistance setting and put your leads on each of the leads of the thermistor. Ideally you would remove it from the board first but you can try this first with it still attached. You should get a reading of about 1 ohm. Because these are temperature sensitive it will vary but at room temperature that should be about the reading you get. If it is a much higher resistance then it is likely bad. Mine tested with no reading meaning it was open and I checked the new ones to be just over 1 ohm.To remove it us a soldering iron and heat up the pads and leads to the thermistor on the back of the board. Hopefully you will have a solder sucker or some desoldering braid to remove most of the solder but if not it you'll have to wiggle the thermistor to get the leads out or cut the leads on the front side and pull them through on the back side. The leads might be bent over so once you get the solder removed straighten them out and remove the thermistor from the top.Thermistors are not polarity sensitive so you can put the new one in either way. Bend over the lead, cut off the access and use some good electronic solder to solder the leads down. Put everything back together in the reverse of how you took it apart. Once it is back together and all the wires are connected the first test should be setting your thermostat to "blower on" if your thermostat has that. It may not turn on right away and when it does it may move forward and back a bit and shake but in a few seconds it should start spinning.The thermistor in mine was labeled SG379 and this is considered a direct replacement. $10 spent and a couple hours of my time and I easily saved myself $1000++. It actually was only about $5 and I now have a spare on hand if this ever happens again. This appears to be an extremely common failure in these type of motors and if you are relatively handy and have a little time it is probably worth it to give this repair a try.

For Trane XV80 gas furnace (part of HVAC system) with Variable Speed Blower Fan unit and the fan does not turn on though heat stage comes on, this could be more likely burnt (damaged) Inrush Current Limiter i.e. NTC Thermistor in ECM (Electronic Control Module).The ECM is attached to Variable speed Blower Fan unit's motor. I am the first timer. To remove ECM, remove the entire blower unit which was not as tough as I thought. Need to carefully remove two wiring harness connectors attached to ECM. Then, remove main circuit board and door safety switch. In my case, I only had to remove two wires connected to the sensor attach on the blower unit body inside the furnace housing. All other wires and associated harnesses connected to the main circuit board stayed in place. Once these two items are removed from furnace body and carefully placed on the side, it creates room to access the main blower unit body. There are two bolts in the top part where the blower body attaches to furnace frame. Some solid object needs to be placed under the blower unit body to snuggly fit in the small opening. So, the blower unit body doesn’t drop down immediately when the two bolts are removed. Remove these two bolts on the top part where blower body is attached. Pull out the blower body. Need to wait 5 to 10 minutes before pulling the ECM out from motor body to let the current discharge to avoid any electrical shock. After that, remove two long bolts from the ECM unit attached to the motor mounted inside the blower unit.Once the ECM is removed, unscrew the green circuit board from the ECM. Check for round dime sized disc like part called “Thermistor” on the circuit board which could be burnt or fried. Need to unsolder this damaged thermistor and replace it with SL32 1R030 thermistor made by Ametherm. SG348 is a 1 ohm, 16 amp, 48 joule inrush current limiter. Ametherm SL32 1R030 is a 1 ohm, 30 amp 160 joule inrush current limiter. The SL32 1R030 meets or exceeds the ratings of the SG348. Per Ametherm, SL32 1R030 is an acceptable replacement for SG348. I confirmed this with Ametherm engineer.Total repair cost was $30 ($10 for parts + $20 for new soldering iron kit) v/s spending $500 to $1000+ with local HVAC companies who would just replace the ECM or entire blower motor. The overall main blower unit removal, repair and reinstall took ~3 hours. This was my first attempt in doing the above repair work and the furnace is now fully operational. I am sure pro’s could take care of this repair in 1 to 2 hours. Btw, my XV80 furnace is 18+ year old and this part failed for first time. Only attempt this type of work if your knowledgeable and at your own risk. I take no responsibility for the write-up in this review. This is fyi only….

did not work purchase them elswhere