If your 4.3 v6 has developed a leak, usually at the driver front, it may be time for intake gaskets. I wrongly condemned my water pump gaskets, only to find the real culprit leaking under the air-conditioning accessory riser (pic 2). This is a daunting process, but by far the most critical point is to MARK YOUR DISTRIBUTOR, before and after you pull it from the block. I went ahead and replaced mine with a summit model and it is a worthwhile upgrade while you're in here (the original is plastic and contacts on mine were corroded).Take your time, watch 1A auto's video, and take written notes on torque specs. I promise it helps. If you can, get yourself an inexpensive multicolored deep 1/4 drive socket set and at least 2 small extensions to stack, and a swivel/quick connect ratchet. Everything on top of the intake manifold can be undone with just those things, and I think it really helps to grab "green" instead of look for a stamped "10", etc..Drain the coolant, scrape the black and intake clean, blast everything with brake parts cleaner and wipe clean. Be very careful with your fuel spider, but clean the poppet nozzle tips with an old toothbrush since you're here. I put my intake/spider upside down on a 5 gallon bucket and did use a nylon wheel to clean up the firewall side of the intake because it was pitted and oxidized, although not majorly so.Skip the sealer in the kit. There is not enough. Buy a big tube of black permatex and lay down 1/8 inch of a continuous bead, gaskets on with locator tab down, then a pea sized dab on each gasket where the gasket meets the bead of sealer you just put on the block. Torque and torque sequence DO matter. Ultimately you'll want to be at 11 foot lbs of torque for all the lower intake bolts. I did upgrade to ARP studs here because my original bolts were wavy and had petrified sealer in the threads.Once everything is back together, it is worth it to change your oil before you crank the engine. There was a lot of crud that made it to the lifter valley for me. I washed it out to the pan using transmission fluid and then changed the oil with a cheaper brand and filter. Ran it for 100 miles or so, then replaced it with my regular mobile 1 synthetic.DO NOT let this project wait. If these gaskets are leaking externally, they're leaking into the lifter valley too. My oil was starting to take on a muddy consistency. It looked fine from the dipstick, but that mud is in the bottom of the pan. Luckily nothing was ruined for me, but I should have done this a few weeks sooner.Overall, gaskets are of great quality. There is chatter in the s10 forums of using Mahale over these ones, but it is all personal preference and conjecture. Rest assured, these ARE the steel reinforced gaskets that are what the car forums refer to as "upgraded". I chose Felpro because of my experience with them for over 20 years of my life. They don't make trash.ALSO, and this may be important to your application - and I worried after my install unnecessarily. These do not have the rear head water jacket block offs. If you have a CPI or MPFI or any kind of fuel spider assembly, you don't need the block off gaskets. The intake is your blockoff. But, if you have TBI (throttle body injection), you do need block off style gaskets and these won't work for you.TL; DR : medium difficulty install, but a great product.

quality product

I do a lot of work myself but this I was not taking on. I paid my Mexican mechanic chino 600$ and he did both my intake gaskets and both valve cover gaskets, threw in a new heater hose and thermostat And cleaned up my covers. Zero coolant leaks or no more oil leaks from covers. Fel pro set is made in USA and definitely a solid kit. If your on the fence go with fel pro there gaskets always fit solid. I think this is the second fel pro gasket I have bought. GREAT craftsmanship 5 stars

Gasket set was awsome. Needed the intake manifold gaskets. Loved them.

Seems fine. Of course the real review should occur 5 years from now to see if it lasts

muy buenos excelente comprá

Supera por mucho las de Tf victor !