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Mark Zod
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 1 de febrero de 2025
These switches are relatively easy to replace. Is paying over $30 for the OEM part worth it? Couldn’t tell you. I’ve still had them fail after several years. Must imagine that generic ones are way cheaper but I decided to be safe - didn’t want it to ever fail closed.
Richard B. Kille
Comentado en Canadá el 9 de mayo de 2021
Part was as expected and operates very well.
Scott Lee
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 27 de septiembre de 2016
Received this yesterday to replace a Melted primary switch (yes, the previous switch melted) and this replacement works like a charm. The microwave model is a 2012 GE Space Saver (over the range): JVM1540LM5CS. The switch that failed was located at the top, for the upper door latch. Simple enough to pop-out and replace.
Steve Guty
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 29 de junio de 2015
Fit perfectly, worked exactly as hoped. Hardest part was getting the microwave out of the built-in installation and free of the surrounds--once I was able to get at the interlock fixture, it took less than 5 minutes to remove the old switches, snap in the replacements, and verify that the worked as expected. Exact fit with the existing mounting lugs and terminal connectors; no surprises.
Cyber Apache
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 12 de noviembre de 2013
I've bought two of these to replace the door interlock switch in my GE Profile Advantium microwave oven. It's an easy DIY if you determine that's the problem. There are three switches in the door. The top and bottom switches are the same kind (this one) and the middle one is different. I've had to replace both the top and bottom switches. If your microwave suddenly "turns on" and hums but it doesn't heat anything then the switch may be bad. One test to confirm this is put slight upward/downward pressure on the door using the handle and see if it starts working correctly. Sometimes that small lateral motion activates the worn switch again to make it work while you hold on to it.To prevent premature switch damage turn off the oven(with clear/cancel button) or let it finish cooking before you open the door. If you open the door while the oven is on (and the switch is energized) you create an arc/spark across the contacts and over time it deforms/blackens and vaporizes the internal contact in the switch. I've taken both failed switches apart to confirm the failure mode and have also reviewed the electrical schematics to confirm this.I know I'll be replacing these again in a couple of years because kids prefer to open the door to end the cooking and frankly I sometimes do too.
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