Interruptor de flotador de condensado SS3, interruptor de desbordamiento de condensado, interruptor de flotador HVAC, interruptor de flotador de cable de 6 pies para instalación en sartenes

I got these float switches because I was replacing a failed crawlspace dehumidifier with a drip pan and an old school levered float switch. I figured I'd have new float switches in hand in case the old float switch was crusty or dead too.A comedy of errors ensues and it turns out that while my old dehumidifier's float switch cutoff circuit was normally closed (NC), as were the overflow safety switch on my condensate pump and the drip pan float switch wired in series, naturally, turns out the new dehumidifier 's cutoff circuit is normally open (NO) for some reason (maybe so they can reuse their optional internal pump's power control circuit?). Seems kind of sketchy to do it it this way, backwards from other condensate-producing HVAC equipment sitting on drip pans ,but that's how it is.I knew my external condensate pump's safety switch was designed to be reconfigurable between NC and NO, so no issue there, but I want the redundancy with the drip pan float switch. With some research on these (or rather, similar/identical ones) with a magnetic reed switch, they might be reconfigurable by flipping the float upside down so I was hopeful there. As luck would have it, I was able to take apart my old levered float switch and found it was also reconfigurable between NC and NO, it was still working fine and looked clean, so I stuck with that old one, wired in parallel with the pump's safety switch. Goodness!I ended up finishing the dehumidifier replacement before these new float switches got delivered so I ended up not using them. But I did want to verify the information I had found about converting them from their default NC configuration to the NO configuration. I carefully removed the C-clip at the bottom, flipped the float upside down, replaced the C-clip and voila, it is now an NO switch!I tested both switches in this package, one in the from-the-factory NC configuration and the other that I just converted to NO. Both work as expected, though the NO configuration seems to show a less stable level of resistance on my digital multimeter when the circuit is closed. I'm guessing that the reed switch inside being designed for NC at rest makes it more stable in that configuration because the lever isn't being flexed as much if at all, while being forced to be NO may be flexing the metal of the switch all the time, but maybe at fluctuating amounts that's reflected in the more varied resistance? I suppose as a signal circuit, as long as it's not reading OPEN, even momentarily, it would shut off my new dehumidifier satisfactorily--once that condition gets tripped, it takes manual intervention at the controls to reset the state and get it running again, so that's on the failsafe side of things, I suppose. And if the NO switch fails because of a crack in the plastic body lets water seep in, that would close the circuit too and turn off the dehumidifier??Anyway, the sensitivity adjustment by moving the two clamping nuts seems simple and reliable--better than using the clamping screws on my old switch to hold the switch at different heights/angles.

My original SS3 leak detectors were made from very inexpensive styrofoam. This product as a two-pack for $15 is a real bargain that performs better than the original for about half the cost. The floats on these devices seem to be a plastic-like material buoy instead of styrofoam. While I don't have much "run time" on them I did confirm that when the float lifts it does indeed create an open circuit which will prevent the AC from running. Please keep in mind this is part of an electrical circuit that should be wired to your furnace low voltage system thermostat wires and not the high voltage. If you are not experienced HVAC professional please be very careful as you could kill yourself if you access the power compartment and/or cut into the wrong wires. 5/5 stars so far.

Normally I only pick out items I actually have a use for or experience with. I glossed over the part where these switches are NC and open when water rises. I actually needed NO for my project, but, I will find a use for these. They test out fine, are well constructed, the bracket is stamped metal without sharp edges, installation looks to be easy for it's intended purpose. So overall construction is good and they test fine, 5 stars, i don't dock stars for user error.

Great inexpensive safety for your over flow pan on a ac or hot water heater. So far working Great and no complaints.