No hay artículos en el carro
No hay artículos en el carroShelby Systems, Inc.
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 12 de marzo de 2025
Worked as expected. Used to isolate my 4x4 wench on my Jeep from direct battery connection.
M. Higginbotham
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 26 de enero de 2025
It has a pretty loud click when you turn the key over. But it’s better than the oem 30 amp unit. I am using my aux battery to power my 1600 watt sound system p=Vi or 1600=14.4i or 1600/14.4=111amps
Jeff P
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 7 de abril de 2024
Finally I was able to find a relay with enough amperage to power the 12,000 pound winch on my Bronco. Able to remove the manual switch under the hood and replace with this high amperage relay. No longer need to open the hood to use my winch
Sofa Kingdom
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 15 de junio de 2023
Although I was able to super glue it back on, the bolt literally snapped off from me just moving it with the wires on it. Don't do that. And don't crank down too hard. The top is all plastic and not strong. But otherwise it's doing the job just fine
N. Aggarwal
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 23 de septiembre de 2022
I have wired up this isolator as per the diagram provided in the instructions. In the photographs you can see the two lugs/wires coming from my two batteries. I also provided a vehicle ground (doubled yellow wire in photo). The brown wire goes to a switch I use as a manual override. When I connect power to the brown wire/terminal on the isolator relay clicks. My battery monitors (FG140F Junctek type) show that the isolator does indeed connect and disconnect loads to the secondary battery. The isolator does not appear to react to voltage though not switching on the 13.3/12.8 boundaries as stated in the specifications. I have to use my override toggle switch to link both batteries so that my alternator will charge them. The isolator heats up when left in the overriden state getting very warm to the touch and 50ºC on a Fluke non-contact temperature meter. The shunt also seems to be running down my batteries even if I break their ground connections AND turn the isolator override to the OFF position though in that case it does not heat up.Any ideas anyone?Update: 09/27/2022A current clamp showed that the isolator was consuming 4 Amps while bypassed with my override connection and the engine (2.5L diesel) would not turnover quickly enough without a boost from a supercap bank. I removed the isolator changing to maually controlled charging of the two batteries via large cut-out switches. In this configuration all works well my Landy now getting full current to the starter and starting right up real quick rather the sluggish turnover (often necessitating jumping with a supercap jump starter) before.Seems I might have received a bad isolator?
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