Great quality. Feels very solid and stable. Gearing places dial back to zero accurately.The scale is marked to a 1/64 inch, but you can easily get close to 1/128 inch by splitting hairs (mid point of the 64th lines.I bought the dial over a vernier caliper so I could zero out the measurement at any position to measure deltas/differences. I also chose the fractional scale with decimal inches as I normally deal with typical tape measure inch values... i don’t measure in thou for what I do... but it’s there if I need it.One problem; kind of big. For mine, the bezel locks in place solidly and the dial resets to zero perfectly.However, if you press down slightly on the plastic cover, it spins freely and is attached to the scale paper. So, while the bezel is locked, you can still spin the measurement markers.I know about this so it can be managed, but you can EASILY adjust the measurement scale.I don’t know how to fix the scale so it doesn’t move.That being said, I’m sure there’s a way without damaging it and I would buy it again.UPDATE: the bezel plastic cap was loose. The edge of the knurled edge is the cap and can be popped off easily. There is a plastic cover and a plastic retaining ring. I removed this carefully by hand, cleaned things, then replaced it and pressed it down tightly. Now the scale doesn’t slip/turn at all.You shouldn’t need to do this, but if spinning the plastic cover also spins the scale, you should be able to press down on the edge of the bezel to make sure it is compressed tight enough.Amazing tool and quality.Upgraded to 5 STARS

It gets the job done. I've been using it for a few weeks now, and I can't complain. It's precise enough, and will never run out of batteries, or having a frozen screen like the several electronic calipers I used to own. I like it and will never go back to electronic. Out with the new technologies, and In with the old one. Never fails.

Got caliper and accurate

I have used one of these for years ... thousands of times.it is a 'go-to' tool in my main tool bag ... always with me, every project ... every project type.for those that do not know what a caliper is, this tool take 3 measurement types: Outside Diameter, Inside Diameter, and Depth. the main purpose is outside diameter, which is the main 'jaws' ... simply roll open with your thumb, the roll closed, and read the dial. the smaller jaws on the back are 'reversed'. you use those to measure the inside of a hole, or whatever. lastly, as you open the jaws, a 'shaft' comes out the bottom. to measure the depth of a hole you open past the depth you need, and simply push down until the bottom of the tool hits the top of the surface ... what is on the dial is the depth.one more thing - calibration. simply close the caliper (make sure the jaws are clean), and then rotate the dial until the needle is at zero. there is no lock, so a bump, or just putting into a toolbag might rotate the dial. it is a trivial, but necessary step ... check the calibration EACH time you use it. open and close it a few time to make sure you get the same reading. if not clean, and re-calibrate.this is NOT a 'precision' tool. some reader reference a couple premium brand names which measure, as they traditionally do, in thousandths of an inch. add a hundred bucks if you want/need one of those. I have them, too, but they stay in a locker with my other precision tools and are seldom used, whereas this is a 'daily item'.an although this is not a precision tool, by definition, it IS a precision tool for everyday stuff, which includes finish carpentry. with this tool you can do museum-quality, or leave 1/8" gaps, it is your choice. but it is a dream-tool for carpentry. when you run boards through a thickness planer, a quick check, and you know 'exactly' where you are at. you want a mark a 2 3/8 for hinge mounting ... set and scribe. done.now, why this tool and not a tape measure. first off you need both, and one is not a replacement for the other, but measuring small objects (up to 6") and this tool is the bomb. what size is that pipe under my sink, or that curtain rod, or the inside of that hose I just pulled of my radiator ... there is, quite literally, no end the usefulness of this tool.btw, you can just throw the box away and toss this in your bag. it is durable, and stainless steel, to boot. yes, I keep my expensive calipers and dial indicators, micrometers in their plastic boxes, in a drawer, but this just goes in the bag for quick access.so why 'a couple more' ... well after years of 'regular use' a tool takes some abuse, drops, dirt, solvents, etc. to be fair, absent 'abuse' this tool will never wear out. and the second one a gift for a friend who wants to know the size of a wheel bearing on his boat trailer ... so now, one million AND ONE uses.lots of folks talk about the price, which to me is just frosting on the cake. when i first got it, I was sincerely surprised at the build quality for twenty-five bucks. over time the price has crept up, but more curiously, the price seems to jump to $40-$45 for couple weeks, then drop back to $30. unless you are in a hurry, buy on the dip.last comment, for those of you tempted to buy a digital caliper, i sincerely recommend against. first there is a battery which means your result is always a factor of the quality of the battery, but more importantly, the point of this tool is a quick read, and an EASY interpretation of the value using a fractional measurement system. if you get a .0127 you have to stop and do the math to know that that is just over 1/8", but using a dial, it is immediately obvious ... the needle is just edging past 1/8th ...

I was looking for a second caliper for woodworking to complement my Starrett caliper - and this fit the bill well. I use the Starrett caliper in my shop for precision measurements when dimensioning wood for projects, or for measuring parts for assembly, or other shop tasks. The problem was, I needed something to use outside in my carport where I store my wood, and where I do rougher cutting tasks. I did not want to bring my 100$ Starrett outside for these "rougher" measuring tasks, plus you know how it is - once you bring the caliper to another location, you forget to bring it back in making it very inconvenient when you need it in the shop. Plus, outside there was more of a chance of dropping the caliper, and the Starrett at $100+ was not the right tool.When I saw this Shop Fox caliper on Amazon, I bought it primarily because of the price. I did not want to buy too cheap a caliper that it was not accurate, and the reviews here helped to make a decision on this one. I also require a caliper to have fractional readings, as this is critical for woodworking.The big surprise was how good this caliper ended up being - it is a very good buy. For those woodworkers on a budget, this may be all you need. It is well built, sturdy, accurate, and comes with a nice storage case that works well. It has all the locking mechanisms to hold a measurement, and the hold well. Basically, it has all the features of the 100$ Starrett caliper I own, but for $70 cheaper. I would like to say that the Starrett is more accurate and durable to justify why it costs so much more, but I am not 100% certain of that. This caliper is well made, and I don't see it breaking any time soon.In fact, look closely at the side by side pictures below of the $100 Starrett caliper and the $30 Shop Fox caliper. We live in an era where there are times where products being sold under different brand names at different price points are really made in the same overseas factory. When you compare these two calipers side by side - it becomes clear that they are VERY similar in design / manufacture, all the way down to the screws. Sure the knurled knobs have different textures, the face has a different color / appearance, and other finishing touches that distinguish them products end up being. And the kicker - look at the weight of the two calipers - near identical. A one gram difference is negligible, and could be the difference of the type of knurled knobs used.For me, standing here holding, comparing, using these two calipers - I would deduce they were made in the same location. Maybe Starrett uses higher quailty stainless steel, maybe they have a higher standard / tolerance for preicsion, maybe there are differences that the eye cannot see. But, I am having trouble seeing those differences in measuring, using. And the fact they weigh the same points to being made of the same composition material / metal. Am I saying these two calipers, $70 apart in price, might actually have the same origin? Well, yeah, I am. The bottom line is, knowing what I know now, I am not sure I would spend $100 for the Starrett.What I like about this caliper:- It has fractional measurements on the face, which are graduated to 1/64th of an inch - which is nice for woodworking.- It returns to zero accurately every time - at least mine does consistently.- It is made of stainless steel, and has a nice weight to it in use - the plastic ones don't "feel" accurate.- It comes with a nice storage case to protect it when not in use- The locking mechanisms and roller work very well- It cost only $30, and looks / feels / operates identically to a $100 StarrettI would have no problem recommending this caliper as either a primary or a backup caliper - I am not sure about QC on these, but the one I received is accurate and has worked well repeatedly for over a year now.Thanks for reading!