Me encanta, corta la madera como si fuera mantequilla. Bueno, estoy exagerando un poco... :) Es una herramienta sólida y de calidad con la que no da miedo enfrentarse a troncos ya de cierto tamaño.

Parfait

This unit is great. Sharp and easy to open and close. Would 100% recommend

Really well built,sharpened saw. Professional Quality. I can highly recommend it.

BELT RELEASE: To easily remove the black belt loop, first press the middle of the loop with your thumb, then simultaneously use your index finder to disengage the clasp at the top (see photos). You can place your thumb almost anywhere along the loop and this technique will work but pressing approximately 2 centimeters down from the hole in the belt loop seems to work best. Unclasping the belt loop is not intuitive, so I wish they had included some instructions...a bit frustrating if you don't know how to do it.HANDLE GRIP: The grip smells like cardboard or particle board and even though it looks smooth, and you might expect it to feel slick, it is quite grippy and has a very good grip texture, maybe even better than rubber. I was surprised.OVAL HOLE IN THE BLADE: The oval hole in the top of the blade near the spine appears to be a thumb-grip, where you can pinch to release the blade. If you oil your blade or put a bee's wax/mineral oil mixture on the blade, the blade will be slippery and difficult to unfold unless you use the oval hole as a grasping point.SAW FITS CASE ONLY PIVOT POINT DOWN: The saw case is designed so that you can only insert the saw pivot point first (or metal end first, when closed).FOAM TO STOP RATTLE: The saw does rattle in the case when closed. I cut a strip of foam, 6 inches long by 3/4th of an inch wide by ¼ of an inch thick (15 centimeters long x 2 centimeters wide x 7 millimeters thick) and placed it in the hinged lid. When I close the lid, there is absolutely no rattle at all. (see photos).NO LOCK ON BLADE (use ranger band): The blade does not lock when closed. However, even when shaking or trying to flick the blade open freehand, the blade does not fly out. If you are concerned though and want to carry your saw out of the plastic case, just use a “ranger band” if you are afraid of the blade coming out in your pack.Otherwise, the saw seems pretty good. Did not seem as sharp as I expected, but maybe I was cutting some exceptionally hard wood? The main trunk of a 40-year-old dead pear tree? I’ll try some other wood and report later. I have another Silky saw (F180 Silky saw, yellow, fine tooth) and it seemed to glide through the branches of that same tree, approximately 3 inches thick, leaving an exceptionally smooth cut surface.EDIT Sept 11, 2023 (upgrade from 4 to 5 stars): My mistake, the Silky Outback is VERY sharp...I was using the wrong cut technique so that is why I initially thought it was not as sharp as expected. You need to put 90% of your effort into the PULL stroke and 1% to 10% (if that much) into the push stroke...actually, you should not really try to cut anything on the push stroke, or you might break the blade, just lift off on the push stroke to set up for the next pull stroke. Just focus on the pull stroke and you don't actually have to put any muscle into the pull stroke either. Just let the teeth of the saw make contact with the wood on the pull stroke and allow the teeth to do all the work or do all the "heavy lifting" and then you will realize how sharp and effective the teeth are.