No hay artículos en el carro
No hay artículos en el carroSe utilizan varios filtros para reducir la luz visible no deseada. Absorción total de luz visible, transmitiendo solo infrarrojos, puede ser útil. Adecuado solo para película infrarroja en blanco y negro, el filtro infrarrojo Tiffen 87 absorbe la luz visible no deseada para que se transmita más de los infrarrojos a la cámara. El filtro, que está en el extremo oscuro del espectro del filtro infrarrojo, se adapta a cámaras con roscas de filtro de 67 mm.
B.G.
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 25 de marzo de 2020
It comes in a nice little box of its own, looks the part, smells the part, etc. Price was good for what it is. But it doesn't work with my camera. I'd recommend triple checking your camera and going online to forums to find out if people with your camera have had success with this filter. I pick up nothing and got mixed comments from various forums. I should have erred on the side of caution and not purchased it. Now I have a lens that seems to be high quality, that I can't use at all.
Disgruntled Customer
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 5 de julio de 2014
Very pleased with this IR filter. On a 14mm prime lens the photos taken were exceptionally beautiful. If I can figure out how to do so I will happily share two photos with you taken with this filter. Pre focusing is a must.
Giddyman
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 9 de mayo de 2013
The filter is of very good quality.Focus is difficult in the IR spectrum, even with pre-focus in visible spectrum. Exposure times are much longer depending on how warm it is. Trees will therefore be much more blurred with the slightest breeze, but it is still a nice effect.In combination with my Panasonic Lumix FZ200 the pictures come out as pink/light purple. Different sensors might have different results.
freemachine
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 5 de junio de 2011
This infrared filter works perfectly with a Nikon D7000. I was very worried about spending this much on a filter not knowing if the outcome would be desireable. There is some debate as to whether or not DSLR cameras can process infrared (IR) light due to IR blockers employed on the camera's sensor. Newer cameras, such as the Nikon D7000, are supposed to be increasingly less sensitive to IR than older ones. Some people say that the only way you can take IR photos with a DSLR is to have the camera physically modified (at some cost and risk), while others maintain that all you need is a suitable IR filter. I can verify that using a filter to remove visible light and pass only near-IR wavelenghts to the digital sensor works, as least with my Nikon. The effect is exactly what you would expect, some objects are dark while others appear to glow intensely. Long exposures are required, so there is a softness to the clouds in the sky and leaves on trees from movement. I've always wanted to take IR photos so this filter was well worth the investment, especially since I would never seriously consider gutting a very expensive and brand new camera.
Stephen Kalman
Comentado en los Estados Unidos el 12 de noviembre de 2011
I had been wanting to try Infrared for some time, but always kept putting it off. Finally, I bought a few books and studied for a while, then took the plunge. Let me summarize what I've learned.1. The term Infrared photography has two meanings. One is to gather heat images. The other is to gather reflected IR light. We're talking about the second here. The first takes completely different equipment.2. Make sure your camera can take IR. All modern digital cameras have a filter over the sensor that blocks IR light. Some of them are far more sensitive than others and the ones that are too sensitive make using a filter like this impossible. There's an easy test. Grab your TV remote and set up to take a photo of the business end of it (as if you were going to use it to control your camera) then press any of the remote buttons while taking a photo. If you have live view, you don't even need to make an image. What you're hoping for is to see the IR light from the remote. Ideally, it will look like the light beam you'd get form a very tiny LED that you might buy for a keychain to use at night. More is better (shorter exposure times). If no IR light is present, stop here or use a different camera.3. Now, get this filter in the right size for your lens. In my case, my SLR blocked all IR, but my Canon G12 was fine. I bought the filter adapter for the G12 (which I also use for other filters, such as a polarizer) and I bought this filter.4. It will be hard to compose and frame your images. Use a medium or high F/stop and set your camera to bracket exposures if it has that feature. Pick something far enough away so that you can manually focus on infinity. If you really want to focus closer, get a measuring tape. Either way, manual focus is pretty much required.5. When you take shots, they'll appear in shades of red when you first look at them. If your camera has a setting that lets you see images on its LCD in monochrome, you can use that. Either way, you'll have to convert to Black and White in some editing program.6. I use Photoshop and Nik Software Silver Efex Pro to do my IR editing. You can start with Google's Picassa for free if you're just getting started with photo editing.7. One of the major benefits of IR photography is that the best IR times are mid-day, which is usually the worst time for color images. The opposite is true, too. Great morning or afternoon light won't usually give great IR photos, tho there are notable exceptions.All in all, I'm very happy with IR in general, and with this filter in particular. As with all filters, it makes no sense to put a cheap, distortion-prone filter on an expensive distortion free lens. Tiffen makes quality filters. You can pay more for other brands, but there's no need to do so.
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