Zoo Med Ceramic Infrared Heat Emitter 100 Watts

Very well made. My last one lasted for years. Heat is so important for their environment. Light isn't always needed so this ceramic option works so well. I would make sure the voltage that you want is correct when you order. This "60 volt" size emits just the right amount for the enclosure that I have.

ハリネズミに使っています。以前陸ガメにも使っていたので安心して購入しました。ただ熱を放射する面が大きいので、ケージのちょっとした清掃で火傷しないように気を付けてください。私は火傷したので星を１つ減らしました。何かガードするものが付属していればなおよいですが…。

Not workimh

Selbst nach stundenlangem Einsatz kaum Wärme spürbar. Meine Schildkröten haben regelrecht gefroren. Da bringt jede normale 60 Watt Glühbirne weitaus mehr. Ich kann hierfür keine Kaufempfehlung abgeben.

GENERAL COMMENTSDoes the job. Radiant heat without light. My Senegal parrot loves it. Georgie's day-cage is on an outside patio in south Florida. I use the heat emitter perhaps 30 days/year when the temperature is between 50 and 65 degrees, and cover the top of the cage with a large beach towel (because cold = windy in south Florida). At night and below 50 degrees during the day, Georgie stays inside.COLORThe emitters come in two colors (black and white), but both produce exactly the same infrared (heat). I have the white version. I suppose some very skittish animals might be uneasy with reflection from a shiny white surface, which is probably the reason for the black version.PLACEMENTRemember that this is radiant heat---it bounces like light. I place the emitter about 3" outside the cage, about 6" below the top---that way, with the top of the cage covered, some radiant heat will bounce down from the cover to warm Georgie's top side. His perch is perpendicular to the emitter, about 2" below the emitter, so that Georgie can choose how much warmth he wants by distance from the emitter. A "nesting box" is immediately below the perch---that way heat can bounce upward from the top of the box to warm Georgie's underside, and the box itself absorbs some warmth, in case Georgie needs to retreat from a hawk, cat, or other perceived threat, or just to nap. I am considering adding a second 60-watt emitter solely to warm Georgie's nesting box, which would provide a toasty retreat even if the temperature drops unexpectedly. Note that an ordinary cardboard box with a entrance hole can serve as a "nesting box".60, 100, OR 150 WattsThe 60 watt is it is adequate for closed vessels, such as 10 gallon aquariums, for which it is recommended. However, even for relatively small uncovered cages, it may not be sufficient. My guestimate (based on use) is that in non-windy conditions 60 watts is adequate for a single medium-small animal able to get within 6" inches of the emitter, in an open cage down to 50 degrees, perhaps 40 degrees with the cage covered (i.e., with a towel or blanket). If the ambient temperature is lower, or the cage is large, or contains many animals, or it is impractical for the residents to get close to the emitter, then maybe a 100 watt or 150 watt emitter would be preferred. GENERAL COMMENTS AND CAVEATSThese generalization depend on the size of your animal, how many animals are in the cage, activity level, and whether cold-blooded or warm blooded. A small difference in size makes a big difference, because the ratio of surface area to mass increases exponentially with decreasing size.> A parakeet can probably survive temperatures which would kill a slightly smaller lovebird. A rat can survive temperatures which would kill a mouse.> On the otherhand, a half-dozen active finches can do a pretty can do a pretty good job of warming up a covered cage by themselves. Or a group of small rodents can huddle together for warmth.> Most birds can reasonably adjust to ambient temperatures by growing more down feathers---but it takes time. Small mammals can adjust by other mechanisms---but it takes time. So don't suddenly expose your animal much colder temperatures than it is used to.> If its cold, be sure your animal has access to plenty of high-energy food---such as nuts.> If your animal is a nest-builder, be sure it is supplied with plenty of material.> If you need to warm your animal's container to more than 30 degrees above ambient, then you probably risk chilling or cooking it---I strongly suggest investing in a thermostat to control the infrared emitter. It is particularly easy to cook animals in terrariums. At the very least, for terrariums, always install a thermometer, or several at strategic points.> A large container of water in a terrarium can go a long way toward moderating temperatures.SAFETY> Note that the emitter itself of (even a 60 watt unit) gets very hot---and can badly burn your pet or your fingers---even thought it may not feel very hot from 1" away. Be sure your pet cannot reach the surface of the emitter. And DO NOT touch the surface to check if it is working.> I suggest installing the emitter in a wire-cage holder on the side (not the top) of your pet's cage or aquarium, so that your pet can choose its own preferred amount of warmth by distance from the emitter.> I suggest installing using a switch with an indicator light, which will tell you whether the emitter is on or off without burning your fingers. or If your lamp-holder has a switch tape it in the "on" position with blue painter's tape.> If your pet is a bird, or otherwise a plastic-chewer, be sure to be sure that it cannot get at the electrical cord.> Click on “Stoney” just below the product title to see my other reviews, or leave a comment to ask a question.